San Telmo retains some of the colonial flavors of past years and is steeped in the city’s history. It was a fashionable district for years until a yellow fever epidemic drove the inhabitants north into what is now the Recoleta, and the lower classes and immigrants moved in. It has narrow streets, low buildings, antique shops and the famed Sunday antique market in the main square of the barrio. San Telmo’s tango bars are an excellent place to learn and dance the tango.
Hangover or not, Sundays should be reserved for the San Telmo Market, a sprawling antique and flea market which meanders from the Plaza Dorrego through the rough-and-tumble bohemian San Telmo neighbourhood. As well as trinkets, vintage clothing and souvenirs, the market boasts street performers and all sorts of eateries.